I really loved Peter Jensen's spring/summer 2010 presentation at the Institute of Contemporary Arts yesterday. Firstly, it was away from the catwalks (and the associated crowds, queues and depressing fashion hierarchy) and I watched the first half of the collection in relative solitude. Secondly, I've always enjoyed Jensen's playful take on the traditional runway show (see last season's Charlotte Mann backdrops), and this season was no exception.
Collaborating with artist Laurie Simmons, Jensen created pieces from his collection in miniature, and dressed them on tiny cut-out dolls. The miniature cardboard cut-outs were lined up along the mantle, where I later glimpsed Colin McDowell resting both hands and leaning right in to inspect them in detail. Detail is key here, as the tiny fabric garments were not just cut from real-size fabric - rather, Jensen painstakingly scaled down the fabric with tiny knits and hand-stitched embroidery.
The miniatures were shot in Simmons' dollhouse and then scaled back up to life-size portraits, which were dotted around the exhibition space. For the presentation, Jensen sent real-life models (with doll-like cut-out hair) to wander around the rooms and pose next to the cut-outs.
The collection itself was inspired by '50s American classics, so there were lots of twinsets, swing jackets and shift dresses, which were rendered in technicolour glory (think buttercup yellows, poppy reds and bubblegum pinks). The dollhouse theme was further explored with Jensen playing with the sense of proportion and size through the use of giant ginghams, oversized watermelon bags and a super-sized ric-rac motif. It was unashamedly girlish with tulle skirts, ruffles and swan prints, and my, it was pretty.
Fab - I need to acquire a Peter Jensen number!
Posted by: Make Do Style | September 24, 2009 at 07:56 AM
wow, that is kind of mind-boggling! what a curious and wonderful concept. how lucky you were to get a peek up close like that!
Posted by: nath | September 24, 2009 at 08:36 AM
Those little dolls are fab ! Got inspired right away !
Posted by: Dominica | September 24, 2009 at 06:31 PM
OMG. It is a good thing you left me a comment as it made me discover your blog, with which I am now totally in love. I might have to go take a dive in your archives and start following you.
x
Posted by: Mademoiselle Robot | September 24, 2009 at 09:31 PM
The red gingham in the first photo! *squeal* Imagine that with the navy gingham Nike's. Haha!
You know, I'd die a happy girl if I have a wardrobe full of my favourite pieces from every season of Peter Jensen and Eley Kishimoto. Ahhhh...xx
Posted by: the likkle girl who wurves pwetty things | September 25, 2009 at 12:44 AM
now this I like ! ....I bet you really did enjoy it Little Bird....this artist has been brave and created his own context (collaboratively with Laurie Simmons)....and by doing this ,ie stepping outside the circus of waiting and overcrowed venues...imediately given his work the space to breathe ...nice post (great work as ever )
Posted by: janeosullivan | September 25, 2009 at 09:27 AM
Am loving these picnic-y looks!
Posted by: miss cavendish | September 25, 2009 at 02:52 PM
Those miniature dolls are wonderful, talk about attention to detail - were the pearls really so huge on the life-size version??
Posted by: Delicious Industries | September 25, 2009 at 04:54 PM
Wow, wow, wow! Fantastic - total art!
Posted by: Sam | September 26, 2009 at 09:25 AM
I looooove your website! I've been trying to put one together myself as a French American living in London. But you have a great taste for aesthetics and I will definitely look at yours for inspiration!
Check out my blog: www.londonzest.blogspot.com.
Keep it up!
Posted by: Emily | September 26, 2009 at 07:27 PM
I Love gingham fabrics, this photos are so well styled!!
Posted by: Margarita | October 08, 2009 at 09:29 PM
I might have to go take a dive in your archives and start following you
Posted by: affiliate | March 19, 2010 at 03:06 AM